A first-person guide to Japan’s most extraordinary island: the ancient cedar forests, the all-day hike to Jōmon Sugi, the sea turtles, the moss worlds that inspired Studio Ghibli, and why – more than fifteen years after I first visited – I am still dreaming of going back.

By Tokyo Becky

Why Does Yakushima Feel Like Nowhere Else on Earth?

There is a saying on Yakushima that it rains thirty-five days a month. I can confirm that this is not as much of an exaggeration as it sounds. When my friend Rima and I arrived on the island in 2009, the mountains were swallowed by cloud, the forest floor was black and gleaming, and the air had a weight to it, a dense, cool moisture that settled on your skin and never quite left. It did not matter. In fact, it was part of it. The rain is what makes Yakushima what it is.

Yakushima is a UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site, registered in 1993 as one of Japan’s first natural World Heritage listings. The island is home to the yakusugi: ancient Japanese cedar trees, cryptomeria japonica, that are over 1,000 years old. The oldest of them, Jōmon Sugi, is estimated to be somewhere between 2,000 and 7,200 years old, which would make it not merely the oldest tree in Japan, but one of the oldest living things on the planet. Standing before it, you feel that.

Standing in front of the Jōmon Sugi is incredibly powerful, Photo by Tokyo Becky

The moss-covered forests of Shiratani Unsuikyo inspired the lead artist on Studio Ghibli’s Princess Mononoke to paint the spirit forests of that film. If you have seen the movie, you will walk into those woods and understand immediately why. If you have not seen it, watch it before you go.

More than fifteen years have passed since that first visit, and I have not stopped thinking about going back. If you are compiling a list of the best places in Japan, Yakushima belongs near the top. There is nowhere else in the country quite like it.

What Are the Best Things to Do on Yakushima?

Yakushima rewards those who come prepared to walk, to get wet, and to give it time. Here is a guide to the island’s essential experiences.

1. The Jōmon Sugi Hike: Japan’s Most Extraordinary Tree

Distance: Approximately 22 km round trip from the Arakawa Trailhead. Duration: 8 to 10 hours. Difficulty: Rated 4 out of 5 by the Yakushima Tourism Association. No admission fee for the trail itself, but shuttle bus to the trailhead is required from March to November (private vehicles are not permitted on the access road during this period).

The hike to Jōmon Sugi is the reason most people come to Yakushima. It is a full day, and it earns every hour.

The trail begins at the Arakawa Trailhead, accessible by shuttle bus from Yakusugi Shizenkan (also known as the Yakusugi Museum) from March to November. From April to November, the first buses depart before 5:00 AM, and starting early is essential: you must catch the last return bus in the afternoon. Aim to be at the Arakawa Trailhead no later than 6:00 AM.

The first section of the trail follows the route of a former logging railway: flat, wide, atmospheric, running alongside a clear mountain river through cedar and broadleaf forest. After about 8 km the railway ends, and the trail rises steeply into older, denser forest. Along the way, you pass Wilson Stump, a hollowed-out ancient cedar whose cavernous interior you can actually step inside; Meoto Sugi, the husband and wife cedars whose trunks have grown together over centuries; and Daio Sugi, one of the largest remaining yakusugi, before the final approach to Jōmon Sugi itself.

Jōmon Sugi stands at 1,280 metres elevation. Its trunk is 5 metres in diameter. It is not tall, by tree standards, standing around 25 metres. But the presence of it is something else entirely. You cannot touch it: a viewing platform keeps you at a respectful distance. But you do not need to touch it. When I finally saw Jōmon Sugi, it felt like a power spot. I could feel its energy emanating outward from the bark. I stood there for a long time and did not want to leave.

Bring more food than you think you will need, a full rain kit, and waterproof boots. The trail is well marked in both Japanese and English. Water from the mountain streams along the route is safe to drink. There are toilets at the trailhead and at Takatsuka Hut near Jōmon Sugi.

2. Climbing Mt. Miyanoura: Kyushu’s Highest Peak

Elevation: 1,936 m. The overnight loop hike via Jōmon Sugi is the most rewarding option and requires two days. The day hike from Yodogawa Trailhead takes approximately 9 to 10 hours round trip. A taxi to the Yodogawa Trailhead costs approximately 7,000 yen from Miyanoura (book the night before — the first bus is very early).

Mt. Miyanoura is the highest peak in Kyushu and one of Japan’s famous One Hundred Mountains. Rima and I caught a taxi in the early hours of the morning to reach the trailhead and climbed through forest and then above the treeline to the summit. We spent the night in a mountain hut at altitude, where two Japanese men we had never met offered to share their bacon with us in the morning over a small camp stove. My socks did not dry overnight. The air was so wet that nothing dried in it. It did not matter.

The overnight loop hike that combines the Miyanoura summit with Jōmon Sugi is the single best hiking experience on the island. You ascend one side of the island’s central mountain range and descend toward Jōmon Sugi on the other, spending a night in Takatsuka Hut or New Takatsuka Hut near the tree. Mountain huts on Yakushima are basic: sleeping platforms, blankets, and nothing more. Bring food, a sleeping bag liner, and warm layers. Reservations are not required, but space is limited.

Rima and I only saw three other people for the entire day of our first hike, due to the rain and our path along the lesser trekked area leading to Mt. Miyanoura

3. Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine: The Real Princess Mononoke Forest

Admission: 800 yen (from April 2026). Shortest trail: approximately 1 hour. Longest trail including Taiko Iwa Rock: approximately 4 hours. Accessible by bus from Miyanoura Port (approx. 35 minutes, 560 yen one way) or by rental car (approx. 30 minutes from Miyanoura).

Shiratani Unsuikyo is the most accessible of Yakushima’s major nature sites and the one most often cited as the inspiration for the spirit forests of Princess Mononoke. It is beautiful in a way that feels invented: moss in every shade of green imaginable covers rocks, tree roots, fallen trunks, and the walls of the ravine itself, creating an effect that is not quite of this world. Crystal-clear mountain streams run between the ancient cedars. The forest glows.

There are four marked trail routes varying from one hour to four hours. The longer route to Taiko Iwa Rock, a granite outcrop at 1,050 metres with panoramic views over the island’s central mountains, is highly recommended for reasonably fit hikers. The Kusugawa Trail beyond the Moss Forest leads eventually to Tsuji Pass and connects with the Jōmon Sugi trail, making it possible to combine the two in a multi-day hike with an overnight in a mountain hut.

Note that the genseirin section of the forest has been closed due to landslide damage. Guides can navigate alternative routes that keep the tour experience largely intact, and this is one hike where a local guide adds significant value: the forest is far larger and more complex than it looks on the trail map.

Standing in front of the forest that most inspired Princess Mononoke, Photo by Rima Ramchandra

4. Yakusugi Land: Ancient Cedars for All Abilities

Admission: 800 yen (from April 2026). Trail options: 30 minutes to 2.5 hours. Accessible by car (approx. 40 minutes from Anbo Town) or by bus from Anbo Town (approx. 40 minutes, 1,050 yen one way, two buses daily).

Yakusugi Land is the most accessible place on the island to encounter ancient yakusugi cedars without a full-day hike. The shortest trail, a 30-minute boardwalk loop, is suitable for families with children and those with limited mobility. Longer trails lead deeper into the forest over two hours, past the Buddha Sugi, Twin Sugi, and the enigmatic Thousand-Year Sugi. Fifteen minutes farther up the mountain road by car is Kigensugi, a giant ancient cedar that stands directly beside the road and is the only major yakusugi on the island reachable by vehicle: easy, spectacular, and often overlooked.

5. Sea Turtle Nesting at Nagata Inakahama Beach

Admission: Free to the beach. Turtle observation tours operate June to July. Nagata Inakahama Beach is approximately 30 minutes by car from Miyanoura.

Yakushima is one of the most important sea turtle nesting grounds in Japan. Loggerhead turtles come ashore at Nagata Inakahama Beach from May to August to lay their eggs, and the hatchlings emerge from July to October. Watching a loggerhead turtle crawl up the beach under the stars to nest is one of the great wildlife experiences available anywhere in Japan. Organised nighttime tours operate during nesting season and provide both access and responsible guidance. Outside of turtle season, the beach is simply one of the most beautiful on the island, facing the East China Sea with an unobstructed view of the sunset.

6. Senpiro Waterfall

Admission: Free. Accessible by car from the coastal road; the falls are visible from an observation deck. No hiking required.

Senpiro Falls drops 60 metres against a massive wall of Yakushima granite and is the most dramatic of the island’s many waterfalls. It is easily accessible and requires no hiking, making it an excellent addition to any day on which the higher trails are closed due to rain. After heavy rainfall the volume of water is extraordinary.

7. Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen: The Tidal Hot Springs

Admission: Free. Open only at low tide. Located on the southern coast of Yakushima.

Along Yakushima’s southern coast, natural hot spring water seeps up through the rock directly into pools at the sea’s edge. Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen is only accessible at low tide, and disappears entirely when the tide comes in: you must check the tidal schedule before visiting. The baths are mixed-gender and clothing-optional in the Japanese tradition. The combination of hot spring water, cold sea air, and the sound of the Pacific is surpassingly good.

How Much Does It Cost to Visit Yakushima?

Always confirm current prices and bus schedules at yakukan.jp (Yakushima Tourism Association) before visiting.

How Do I Get to Yakushima from Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyushu?

Yakushima is reached via Kagoshima. From Tokyo or Osaka, fly or take the Shinkansen to Kagoshima first, then continue to the island.

The Shinkansen Nozomi stops at Kagoshima-Chuo. Jetfoil reservations are recommended but not always required. In typhoon season or rough weather, both jetfoil and ferry services may be delayed or cancelled. Check with operators before travelling.

Where Should I Stay on Yakushima?

The island has two main towns: Miyanoura on the north coast, which is the larger of the two, with the main port, the Yakusugi Museum, and most of the supermarkets; and Anbo on the east coast, which is closer to the Arakawa Trailhead and the recommended base town if your priority is the Jōmon Sugi hike. Staying in Anbo means more sleep before a pre-dawn start.

For the overnight mountain huts near Jōmon Sugi and on Mt. Miyanoura, no advance reservation is required, but the huts are basic: platforms for sleeping, no bedding provided, no meals. Bring a sleeping bag liner at minimum, and warm layers regardless of season.

Rental cars are strongly recommended for exploring the island beyond the main hiking trailheads. Buses run approximately once per hour along the coastal road but are less frequent and sometimes non-existent into the island’s interior. For visitors relying on public transport, basing yourself in Miyanoura or Anbo is essential.

What Do I Need to Know Before Visiting Yakushima?

When is the best time to visit Yakushima? Spring (April and May) and autumn (October and November) are the most popular and most pleasant times to visit, with milder temperatures and slightly lower rainfall. Summer (June to August) is the hottest and wettest period, coinciding with sea turtle nesting season: worth planning around if that experience matters to you. July and August also bring typhoon risk. Winter (December to February) is quiet, cool, and uncrowded, with occasional snow above the treeline and snow on Miyanoura’s summit. There is no truly dry season on Yakushima.

Do I need a rental car? Almost certainly yes, unless you are doing only the Jōmon Sugi hike and Shiratani Unsuikyo, both of which have bus access. For the coastal sights, waterfalls, onsen, and Yakusugi Land, a rental car is significantly more practical. Reserve your car in advance, as availability is limited on a small island.

What gear do I need? Waterproof hiking boots and a full rain kit (jacket and trousers) are non-negotiable. Even on days when it is not raining, the trail surfaces and forest floor are permanently wet. Pack more warm layers than you think you need for overnight hikes. Hiking poles help significantly on the steep sections. Bring cash: many places on the island do not accept cards, and buses require exact change or IC card.

Do I need a guide? The Jōmon Sugi trail and the shorter Shiratani Unsuikyo courses are well marked in English and do not require a guide. For the Miyanoura overnight loop, multi-day hikes, or if you want to go deeper into the forest than the standard routes, a certified Yakushima guide adds real value. The island has its own guide certification system, and licensed guides carry insurance and first aid training.

Is Yakushima good for families? Yes, with the right planning. Yakusugi Land’s 30-minute boardwalk trail is suitable for children and all abilities. Shiratani Unsuikyo’s shorter routes are accessible for older children. The sea turtles and snorkeling are excellent family experiences. The Jōmon Sugi full-day hike is not recommended for young children or anyone with limited fitness.

Is the JR Rail Pass useful for Yakushima? The JR Pass covers the Shinkansen to Kagoshima-Chuo. The jetfoil and car ferry to Yakushima are not covered and must be purchased separately. Flights to Yakushima are also not covered.

Is Yakushima Worth Visiting?

More than fifteen years since that first trip, I am still dreaming of going back. The socks that never dried. The bacon shared by strangers at altitude. The tree that has been alive since before any city I have ever walked through existed. There is a quality to the air on Yakushima, damp and green and charged with something older than human memory, that I have not found anywhere else in Japan.

Yakushima is one of the best places in Japan not because it is easy or convenient or comfortable. It is because it is genuine. The forest does not care about you. The rain does not care about your itinerary. And standing in front of a tree that has been alive for possibly seven thousand years, you stop caring about those things too.

If you love nature, wilderness, or travel that asks something of you, Yakushima is not optional. It is essential.

Visiting Wilson’s Stump is another amazing moment on Yakushima. It is only accessible via hiking and is on the way to Jōmon Sugi, Photo by Tokyo Becky