Gotokuji Temple in Setagaya is the cat temple in Tokyo that gave the world the maneki-neko lucky cat. Thousands of white ceramic cats fill the grounds of this free, beautiful Zen Buddhist temple on the Odakyu Line, each one left by a visitor whose wish came true. I lived four train stops away for two and a half years and visited more times than I can count. For cat lovers, this is the best place you can visit in Japan. This guide covers the full history of Gotokuji, the meaning behind the figurines, everything to see on the grounds including the three-storied pagoda and the Ii family cemetery, how to ride the Lucky Cat Tram, and exactly how to get there from Shinjuku.

Step into Omoide Yokocho, Shinjuku’s smoky alley where yakitori sizzles and strangers become fast friends. This guide covers what to eat, where to drink, and how it compares to Golden Gai plus why this scrappy postwar strip, affectionately called Piss Alley, delivers one of Tokyo’s most unforgettable nights.

The Haruki Murakami Library (officially the Waseda International House of Literature) is one of the most enchanting free attractions in Tokyo. Designed by architect Kengo Kuma and housed on Murakami’s alma mater campus at Waseda University, it holds over 3,000 of his books in 50 languages, a jazz vinyl listening room, a replica of his writing study, and the Orange Cat cafe. I visited in 2022 and, as a Murakami fan, spent one of my most magical afternoons in Tokyo. Here is everything you need to know before you go, including opening hours, the reservation system, and the best Murakami novels to read first.

Tokyo’s 11 islands stretch 1,000 kilometers south into the Pacific from the surf beaches of Niijima and the volcanic scenery of Miyakejima to the UNESCO World Heritage shores of Chichijima and Hahajima. This is the definitive guide to every island accessible by ferry from Tokyo including how to book tickets, what to expect on board, and where to stay.